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The Pink House

What is the Pink House?

Nope, I am not talking about Barbie’s dream house, even though it may look similar. I am actually talking about the Montpelier house prior to the restoration. If you ask many people in the local community about Montpelier, they might recall the pink house. This was the large pink county house that the duPonts lived in for almost 100 years before the restoration happened. Many people in the community worked for the duPonts, lived near the property, and/or attended the Montpelier races every year. As a result, the pink house was a vibrant landmark in the memories of the local community. The house got this pale pink color from a layer of stucco that had been applied over the brick to create a smooth surface that was then painted pink. The pink stucco had been on the house so long that no one could recall a time when the house was not pink, leading to one of the biggest investigations during the restoration.

What is Stucco?

 

Image showing Tudar Place in Washington D.C. built in 1816 using stucco on the exterior walls. Photo taken by Ron Cogswell

Stucco, a plaster-like material composed of lime, sand, and water, is widely utilized for exterior coatings in construction worldwide. Its popularity in the United States emerged during the 19th century with the rise of the Federalist and Greek Revival architectural styles. Compared to other building materials, stucco offered cost-effectiveness, superior waterproofing, and enhanced insulation. Additionally, it served as a protective layer over brick and stone structures. As the 20th century unfolded, Portland Cement emerged as a primary ingredient in stucco production, resulting in a harder, more durable material with a slightly different color compared to the older lime-based stucco. [1]

Did Madison Add the Pink Stucco?

1818 Painting by Baroness Hyde de Neuville, Courtesy of Musée Franco-Américain du Château de Blérancourt, France

At the beginning of the restoration process, one of the primary inquiries the team faced was determining when the house was stuccoed pink. For decades, the pink house had been synonymous with James Madison’s residence; however, the team was uncertain about the timeline for the application of the pink stucco. A painting by the Baroness Hyde de Neuville in 1818 depicted the house’s exterior in a smooth salmon color. This led to the belief that Madison had stuccoed the house pink during his ownership. However, as the restoration progressed, the team discovered that the Baroness had taken artistic liberties in her portrayal. Physical evidence examined during the restoration revealed that she had omitted or added elements to her depiction of the house. Consequently, the team concluded that the pink appearance of the structure in this painting was insufficient evidence, and further investigation of the topic was necessary.

This required extensive research into archival records and the physical structure to determine the original date of the pink stucco. The team initially examined letters written by Madison to Jefferson before his final renovations began in 1812. In these letters, Madison sought Jefferson’s advice on plastering brick to shield it from the weather. These correspondences suggest that both the house and the portico columns remained unplastered in 1800.

Now, the team needed to eliminate the possibility that Madison had followed Jefferson’s advice and opted to stucco the entire house in 1812. Researchers uncovered a description from George Shattuck in 1816, noting the house’s appearance as “brick of a dark red color. This suggested that the house had not yet been stuccoed, and the bricks were still visible at that time. Considering that Madison did not undertake any major renovations before his death in 1836, the stucco application must have occurred after his passing. Following Madison’s death, Dolley spent most of her time in D.C. This, along with her financial constraints, suggests that she likely did not carry out any renovations to the Montpelier house. Therefore, it is probable that the house remained unstuccoed until after she sold the property in 1844. [2]

Hooked rug from 1852 depicting the house covered in white stucco, Image courtesy of James Madison’s Montpelier

In fact, the earliest documentary reference that the team could find for the stucco was in 1863 when a Civil War soldier stationed in the area mentions the stuccoed appearance of the house. He remembered the house to be “a fine stuccoed building in good repair.” [3]

Now, the team knew that the house had to have been stuccoed between the years 1844 and 1862, but they wanted to narrow it down even further. To accomplish this, they turned to the physical evidence. The first clue was discovered during the removal of the duPont second-floor addition on the wings. Once the masonry on the main block of the Madison house was revealed, the team noticed the outline of a low hipped roof. Above the outline, evidence of stucco was present, but below the line, there was none. This indicated that the exterior was stuccoed after the hip roof was added. The team determined that the Madison-era flat wing roofs were replaced during the Benjamin Thornton era, narrowing the time frame to 1848-1854.

As the investigation progressed, a significant piece of evidence emerged from beneath the front porch. Here, the team uncovered a notable detail, the stucco seemed to cease abruptly beneath the front door. This small patch of exposed brick led the team to infer that an architectural feature must have been present here during the stucco application and had prevented this section from being covered. It was known that the porch had undergone multiple alterations since the property was sold by the Madison family. When Benjamin Thornton acquired the property in 1848, he removed the large portico deck and constructed a smaller porch beneath the front door. The team reasoned that the stucco application likely coincided with these changes, thus explaining why a small portion remained unstuccoed. There would have been no purpose in stuccoing the masonry beneath the porch as it was not visible. Furthermore, the team observed that the stucco appeared to have been applied across the entire house all at once, including over the north elevation filled-in windows, suggesting that this stucco application occurred after those alterations. However, the question remained: how long after?[4]

Image of the house from 1890 with a stuccoed exterior, Image courtesy of James Madison’s Montpelier

After examining the infill used to close up the windows, the team determined that the stucco was applied soon afterward. This conclusion was drawn from the observation that the masons made no effort to match the brickwork or clean the mortar joints. Therefore, the team theorized that the infill was laid in preparation for the stucco to be applied over it. This timeline suggests that the stucco was applied around 1849/1850, coinciding with Thornton’s renovation of the house after acquiring the property.” [5] This would correlate with the publication of The Architecture of County Houses by Andrew Jackson Downing in 1850, which advocated for the use of stucco as a decorative element, stating “stucco was superior in many respects to plain brick or stone because it was cheaper, warmer and dryer, and could be “agreeably” tinted.”[6] Perhaps Thornton decided to stucco the house after reading this design book.

Stucco or Granite

We know that the stucco was applied around 1850, but now the team wanted to determine its appearance. Clues came from descriptions of the house by Civil War soldiers in 1862.

 

“yesterday I visited James Madison’s old residence and grave. It is by far the most beautiful place I ever saw . . .it is situated upon an eminence commanding a fine view of the Blue Ridge about 10 miles distance. There is 20 acres of land in the yard thickly set with shrubbery of all kinds while over them waive the tall white walnut trees under whose branches the old statesman of a better age reposes. His monument [house] is about 30 feet high composed of fine granite. A gentleman by the name of Carson now lives there, a brother of whom lives in Baltimore of some Eminence.” –William McClellan [7]

Another soldier recalled the property writing

 

“The [Montpelier] dwelling is situated on a beautiful eminence and commands a grand view of the mountains and the country scenery around.  It has been erected more than a hundred years and is built of pure granite.  It is a very large house and has about 20 rooms in all.” – Marion Hill Fitzpatrick [8]

Microscopic image of a stucco sample showing a layer of grayish stucco to create the appearance of granite, Image taken by Dr. Susan Buck

Why would these soldiers claim that the house was made of granite? The team theorized that the only plausible explanation would be that the initial layer of stucco was colored and tooled to resemble blocks of granite. [9] It was not uncommon to use a cheaper material to mimic the appearance of a more expensive stone. A similar technique is observed at Mount Vernon, where wood siding is cut and sanded to simulate blocks of stone in a process called rustication. [10] While the house was never constructed of granite, the stucco was applied in a manner intended to deceive visitors into believing it was granite.

Image showing the original grey stucco that had been tooled to look like granite revealed behind the raised grade under the protico, photo taken by Matt Reeves

Removal of the Pink Stucco

It remains unclear exactly when the stucco was first painted pink, but microscopic analysis of the stucco indicates that a few layers of the pink paint date back to the duPont occupation. The team discovered an early image of the duPont house where the exterior appears to be a pale-yellow color. This suggests that the house was not painted pink until later in the duPont ownership, possibly to recreate the salmon color seen in the Baroness Hyde de Neuville painting. At this point, the team had discovered sufficient evidence to confirm that the pink stucco was not a feature from the Madison era. Consequently, the Architectural Review Board decided to remove the stucco from the exterior elevations of the house.

Image of the pink stucco being removed from the south elevation, image courtesy of James Madison’s Montpelier

The removal of the stucco was a significant undertaking that had to be executed very carefully, so as not to damage the original Madison-era brickwork underneath. Ray Canetti, one of the many skilled masons working on the restoration, was perfectly suited for the job. For weeks, he slowly chiseled away the pink stucco, revealing the masonry below. While the team was initially concerned about the condition of the original Madison-era bricks once uncovered, they were relieved to find the majority of them in excellent condition. Although some areas of masonry required repair, overall, the stucco had acted as a protective covering for the brickwork.

The pink stucco might not be an original Madison-era element, but it is a feature that is tied to the history of the house and is highly recognizable. For decades, it created a visual contrast between the duPont house and the Madison house while also protecting the Madison brickwork from the elements. Without the time spent during the investigation to understand the evolution of the stucco, the restored house could have looked much different. The expertise and dedication of the restoration team ensured the accurate restoration of the Madison-era exterior appearance of the house.

What the Montpelier house could have looked like if the pink stucco had not been removed, image courtesy of James Madison’s Montpelier

References

[1] Grimmer, Anne. “Preservation Brief 22: The Preservation and Repair of Historic Stucco.” National Parks Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1990, home1.nps.gov/tps/how-to-preserve/briefs/22-stucco.htm, p.1-4

[2] Wenger, Mark, “The Stucco,” James Madison’s Montpelier Architecture and Historic Preservation Department, October 28, 2008.

[3] Diary of Watkins Kearns, May 17, 1863 to February 29, 1864, Virginia Historical Society, Richmond, Virginia.

[4]-[5] Wenger, “The Stucco.”

Why did James Madison have a temple in his front yard? He didn’t come here to pray– it wasn’t that kind of temple. Maybe it reminded him of the ancient Roman temple where the “flame of Liberty” was kept burning. But what does “liberty” mean? Does it mean that you can do anything you want? Whenever you want? Of course not! Can you imagine a whole country of people doing whatever they want? Imagine how quickly things would get out of control!

Things were getting out of control after the colonies broke away from the King of England during the American Revolution. The new states didn’t have a good system to govern themselves. They needed a rulebook. They needed a constitution.

Enter James Madison. He read lots of books right here at Montpelier that gave him ideas about the rules that other countries played by, if they didn’t have a king. Madison went to Philadelphia and worked with people from many different states to write a Constitution. His ideas were so helpful that now he is known as the “Father of the Constitution.”

What does the Constitution say about who makes the rules? Instead of a king, it’s “We The People.” The Constitution gives citizens the FREEDOM to govern themselves, to choose their own leaders, and to make their own laws and rules. The Constitution also protects the people’s rights like freedom of speech, freedom of religion, and freedom of the press.

At first the Constitution didn’t allow everyone to participate in government, but over the past 240 years, Americans have made changes — things called Amendments– that let more people have rights, and vote, and run for office. Now “We the People” means just about “All the People!”

The United States Constitution is the modern world’s longest lasting Constitution, and many countries have used it as a model when they wrote their own Constitutions . And just think: it all began right here, on this plantation, Montpelier. That’s how Montpelier made its mark on the world!

Madison was the 4th President, but can you guess six other Presidents who came to Montpelier?

Madison’s best friends were Presidents 3 and 5. Maybe you’ll visit their homes, Monticello and Highland. Who were they? … Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe!

President Number 7 visited Montpelier in 1832. Someone in your family might have his picture right now – he’s on the $20 bill. Who was he? … Andrew Jackson!

Three other Presidents visited Montpelier after Madison’s lifetime. They might be harder to guess, but let’s give it a try.

President Number 19 came in 1878, and gave a speech in praise of Madison and the Constitution. In fact, his last name rhymes with “praise.” Any guesses?… Rutherford B. Hayes!

President Number 26 came to Montpelier on Thanksgiving Day 1907, when the duPonts lived here. A toy bear is named for him. Who was he? … Teddy Roosevelt!

And finally, President Number 41 came here in 1991 for the 200th anniversary of the Bill of Rights. His son was a President too. Can you guess? … George H. W. Bush!

That’s a lot of Presidents who made their mark on Montpelier. And today you’re here! Now you’re part of Montpelier’s story too.

Sometimes the people who lived at Montpelier chose to make their mark, but other times they were forced to make their mark. From the time President Madison’s grandparents came to Montpelier, it was a plantation––a huge farm–where enslaved people of African descent grew crops like tobacco, wheat, and corn and did many other jobs to make money for the Madison family. People who were enslaved had many skills and worked hard, but they didn’t get the benefit.

It was not only enslaved adults that labored for the Madisons, but enslaved children were also forced to do a lot of different tasks such as gathering firewood, helping in the kitchens, hauling water, cleaning stables, and… making bricks. Look at this huge house in front of you— each and every one of these bricks was made one at a time, by hand. On plantations, brick-making was often a task given to enslaved children. They pressed wet clay into rectangular-shaped molds. Then the bricks were left in the sun to “bake,” and once enough bricks were made they “fired” them to harden them. Have you ever pressed your fingers into wet clay? What happens when you do that? Your fingerprints make a mark. That’s exactly what happened here when enslaved people were making bricks to build this house. As you walk around the house, see if you can find any fingerprints in the bricks. These fingerprints remind us that nearly 300 enslaved people, of all ages, made their mark on Montpelier.

Since enslaved adults and children did most of the work at Montpelier, they didn’t have a lot of time for fun. What did they do when they did have a little time to themselves? Archaeologists found artifacts – marbles, doll parts, and toy wagon wheels – that tell us that enslaved children sometimes played with toys. Other artifacts, like musical instruments called jaw harps, tell us that enslaved people made music. Many of the activities that enslaved people probably enjoyed, like storytelling or dancing, didn’t leave artifacts in the ground.

The Madisons had much more time to themselves. Written records describe one of their favorite ways to have fun: parties.

Dolley Madison wrote about a barbecue picnic that she and James hosted on the 4th of July 1816. Ninety guests sat at tables set up on the lawn by enslaved people. Enslaved waiters served them roasted meats and punch, and most likely, fresh vegetables from the garden.

We don’t have a written account of what enslaved people had to do to get ready for that party, but historians found one written account that gives us a clue. In 1824, the famous General Lafayette visited Montpelier. A young enslaved maid named Ailsey Payne was there. Years later, she gave a newspaper reporter her eyewitness account. She saw so many horse drawn carriages she could hardly count them. Young enslaved men rode and led the horses. Enslaved people stored all kinds of food and meat in the icehouse. Ailsey Payne helped clean every inch of the House and shined all of the glass, silver, and china.

Ailsey Payne left her mark on Montpelier by telling her story! Will you tell someone about your visit?

Have you ever been asked to “sweep the floor?” Maybe it’s your chore to sweep up the crumbs that fall to the floor after dinner (if you don’t have a dog to do it for you). But have you ever been asked to “sweep the yard?” Archaeologists at Montpelier believe that enslaved people who lived here did just that! They used brooms to sweep away all of the grass and weeds. The ground would have been like a smooth, hard, clay floor.

Sweeping the yard cut down pests and unwanted creatures like ticks, mice, and snakes. It was a natural way of getting rid of pests that ruined food or caused disease.

The building in front of you was once a kitchen. Enslaved cooks labored here from long before sunup to long after sundown to prepare meals for the Madison family and their guests. They could build their hot cooking fires outside in the swept yard so that the work was more tolerable.

Except for the two smokehouses, the buildings here were homes for enslaved families who mostly worked inside the Madisons’ House. Their homes could be crowded, dark, and unbearably hot in summer. Having a smooth, swept yard allowed them to move many of their indoor activities outdoors. Imagine how busy this place would have been!

The ancestors of enslaved people at Montpelier had also swept their yards in Africa.They passed their wisdom along to their descendants. This is just one example of how enslaved people and their ancestors left their mark on Montpelier.

Do you have pets?

The Madisons had a pet parrot named Polly, but most of the animals at Montpelier weren’t pets – they were working animals. Horses pulled plows that made the ground ready for planting wheat or corn. Horses also pulled wagons, loaded with barrels of Montpelier tobaccos or wheat flour, to market in Fredericksburg and Richmond, and brought supplies back. Aleck was an enslaved wagoner who drove and cared for the horses. On one trip to Fredericksburg, Aleck had to borrow 50 cents to go to the blacksmith for new horseshoes so the horses could make the trip back.

Besides horses, there were cows and sheep and pigs at Montpelier. Some animals were raised for food. Sheep were also raised for their woolly coats. Enslaved women spun the wool into yarn or thread, and weavers like Reuben, Amy, and Harriet wove it into cloth.

James Madison wanted to improve the American breeds of cows and sheep. He bought some Merino sheep, because their wool was so good. A friend gave him some Devon calves as a gift, because they were a better breed of cows.

Animals made their mark at Montpelier – and so did the people who worked with them and took care of them!

How do we know what we know about the past? We can’t ask the people who used to live here— they’re long gone. We have to piece together clues from “primary sources”— letters, journals, diaries, paintings, and newspapers. History is kind of like a giant jigsaw puzzle— as we put the pieces together, a picture of the past emerges!

The very first people to live at Montpelier were Native Americans, or Indigenous people. They didn’t leave written records behind, but they did leave artifacts– objects that were made or shaped or used with their own hands. People who study artifacts are called archaeologists. Montpelier’s archaeologists have discovered artifacts that are about 2000 years old. That tells us that Indigenous people were here, thousands of years before the Madisons, or enslaved people, ever set foot on this land.

The Manahoac tribe were the native people living on this land just before the Madisons arrived here. Artifacts show us that the Manahoac made their mark by making their homes here for periods of time. The artifacts found near President Madison’s house, and near his grandparent’s house at Mount Pleasant–objects such as ceramics, stone tools, and projectile points— show us that the Manahoac thought these were good places to live too.

Did you know that there are descendants of Manahoac people living and making their mark in Virginia today? They are now part of the Monocan tribe, one of the 7 Federally recognized tribes in Virginia.

Some of the people that left their mark on Montpelier are buried here in the Madison family Cemetery. Can you guess which of these gravestones marks the final resting place of James Madison? It’s the tallest monument, and it’s called an obelisk. Today it’s easy to spot Madison’s grave, but if you visited Montpelier in the first 20 years after his death, you wouldn’t know where he was buried unless you were a member of his family. James Madison passed away on June 28, 1836, and two days later, he was buried here, in an unmarked grave.

Why would a president of the United States be buried in an unmarked grave? Today we usually place a marker at the head of a grave, but in the 1700s and 1800s people didn’t always do that, especially in a family cemetery where everyone knew where their family members were buried. If you count the gravestones you’ll find that there are about 30, but we know there are about 100 Madison family members buried here.

It wasn’t until 20 years later that people, outside of the Madison family, decided to place the large gravestone to honor the “Father of the Constitution.” Now, ready for a creepy story? Before placing the gravestone, a deep foundation had to be dug to a depth below James Madison’s coffin. “The boards placed above the coffin had decayed…and the coffin lid was slightly out of place…” so the men digging the foundation opened the coffin lid and “looked in upon the remains…” of James Madison!

Some people made their mark at Montpelier by leaving it.

Anthony was just 17 years old when he decided to make his escape from Montpelier. He had been enslaved here all his life, working in the Madisons’ house, and he was ready to take a big risk for freedom. James Madison’s father placed an ad in the newspaper to say that Anthony had escaped. The ad said that Anthony had light hair and gray eyes, and it described his coats, pants, striped overalls, hat, and buckled shoes. The ad offered a reward for capturing Anthony.

Anthony didn’t want to be caught, so he told people his name was Robert Jones. But one year after he escaped, Anthony was found, about 70 miles from Montpelier. He told the men who captured him that he had traveled to port cities in Virginia, to Philadelphia, and even the West Indies.

But the very next day, Anthony escaped again. He managed to get papers that said he was a free man named Billy Willis. There was a rumor that he was heading to Philadelphia. The Madisons never heard from him again. What happened next is a mystery. But Anthony left his mark by taking a big risk for freedom.

The duPont Family bought Montpelier in 1901 and made many changes to the House and the property. Did you see the racetrack on your way in today? You might even have seen some horses!

Marion duPont Scott loved horses and horse racing. She helped make Montpelier one of the most important horse training centers in America. When three of her favorite horses passed away, she had them buried here and put up these markers to remember them.

Perhaps her favorite horse was Battleship. He was so small that people called him the “American Pony,” but Marion DuPont Scott knew that he had big talent. She sent him across the ocean to race in the British “Grand National,” an important steeplechase race that is still run today. The race is over 4 miles long, and the horses have to jump 30 fences! Many people thought that a small horse like Battleship couldn’t possibly win, but in 1938 he surprised them all! To this day, he is still the smallest horse ever to win the British Grand National. You might say that Battleship left his hoofprints on the history of horse racing!

Marion duPont Scott left another mark on Montpelier. She wanted to share Montpelier and its story with everyone. Thanks to her, you can visit Montpelier today!

Lots of people made their mark on Montpelier. But there are two people you might already know: James and Dolley Madison!

How did James Madison make his mark? He was a Virginia lawmaker, a US Congressman, the Secretary of State, and our 4th President! (Not all at the same time.)

But most importantly, Madison was “Father of the Constitution” and “Architect of the Bill of Rights.” He didn’t write those documents all by himself, but he shared lots of good ideas that still help us govern our country. Madison got his ideas from reading books right here at Montpelier, and he made notes to take to the Constitutional Convention.

Madison could spend so much time in public service because his family had money from owning this plantation. The Madisons enslaved people who grew crops and tended animals. The enslaved people didn’t have much choice about being here, but their hard work made Madison’s career possible. The enslaved people made their mark as the “invisible Founders” of our country.

Dolley Madison made her mark too. James was shy and quiet, but Dolley liked to bring people together for dinners and parties, especially in Washington, DC. That made it easier for James to connect with other people in government.

As you explore Montpelier, see what else you’ll find out about people making their mark!

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