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Three Presidents Who Visited Montpelier

A remarkable amount of Presidential history has converged at Montpelier. President James Madison lived here. Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe – the Presidents before and after Madison – visited Montpelier many times. They were Madison’s good friends and political collaborators, and their homes – Monticello and Highland – were within a day’s ride of Montpelier. Andrew Jackson also paid a brief visit to Montpelier during his presidency, in July 1832. And while there is no documentation that Zachary Taylor visited Montpelier as an adult, it is possible that he came as an infant. Taylor was born in Orange County in 1784, a second cousin to James Madison. His family may have brought the new baby to Montpelier before they moved to Kentucky in 1785.

Although these figures never gathered at Montpelier at the same time, this installation in the Dining Room represented some of the Madisons’ best-known guests, including three Presidential visitors. From the left and going clockwise around the table: Revolutionary War General Lafayette, writer Margaret Bayard Smith, President James Madison, President James Monroe, Dolley Madison (partially obscured at the head of the table), President Thomas Jefferson, Dolley’s sister Anna Payne Cutts, and President Andrew Jackson.

The Surprising Three

Long after James Madison’s death, three other Presidents made visits to Montpelier, each for different reasons.

 

Rutherford B. Hayes

When President Hayes set out for Montpelier on October 9, 1878, he had just returned from a tour through the Midwest, where he gave speeches at fairs, at civic events, and at the Chicago Board of Trade. Charles Richard Williams, The Life of Rutherford Birchard Hayes, Nineteenth President of the United States (New York: Houghton Mifflin Company, 1914), accesssed January 14, 2019, MRD-S 25689, Montpelier Research Database. While most of the President’s speeches were aimed at promoting his financial policies as the November election approached, he planned a different theme for his visit to Montpelier. Hayes wrote in his diary: “My talk at Orange Court House, Va., Wednesday must be very brief, and confined to the services of Madison. His name is linked inseparably with the Constitution of the United States. … As long as free Constitutional Governments exist his work will be held in grateful remembrance.” Rutherford Birchard Hayes and T. Harry Williams (editor), Hayes: The Diary of a President, 1875-1881, Covering the Disputed Election, The End of Reconstruction, and the Beginning of Civil Service (New York: D. McKay Company, 1964), pp. 164-66, accessed January 14, 2019, MRD-S 24549, Montpelier Research Database.

It was just 13 years after the end of the Civil War, and only a year after Hayes had pulled the last federal troops out of the southern states, effectively ending Reconstruction. By choosing Madison as the subject for a speech, Hayes offered a conciliatory tone, paying tribute to a statesman who was well-regarded in both the South and the country at large.

As a former Union general who won the Presidency in a contentious election, Hayes was not entirely popular in the South. The Gordonsville Gazette, published in Orange county, called out Hayes as “the greatest fraud of the age” who would make a pretense of weeping over Madison’s grave: “We fully expect to hear of Madison’s crumbling bones turning over in their grave when the weeping commences.” Quoted in William H. B. Thomas, President Hayes Visits Montpelier, Orange Review (Orange VA), January 1971, accessed January 14, 2019, MRD-S 24599, Montpelier Research Database.

The visit proved to be a success for Hayes, however. Setting out from Washington with First Lady Lucy Hayes and several Cabinet members, the Presidential party traveled by train to Orange, where Hayes noted “a crowd of people met us … and there was speaking.” It took an hour for all the carriages carrying the visiting and local dignitaries to reach Montpelier. As he wrote in his diary, Hayes found Montpelier “admirable” but also commented that “the place is not well kept up and is for sale cheap.” He was impressed with the “great trees,” noting the circumference of several specimens: a white oak (21 feet), a chestnut (37 feet), a black walnut (15 feet), and a tulip poplar (18 feet). Rutherford Birchard Hayes and T. Harry Williams (editor), Hayes: The Diary of a President, 1875-1881, Covering the Disputed Election, The End of Reconstruction, and the Beginning of Civil Service (New York: D. McKay Company, 1964), pp. 164-66, accessed January 14, 2019, MRD-S 24549, Montpelier Research Database.

President Hayes was met at the door with “hearty handshaking” from Frank Carson, who lived at Montpelier at the time. Col. John Willis, Madison’s great-nephew, gave “a carefully prepared speech.” Rutherford Birchard Hayes and T. Harry Williams (editor), Hayes: The Diary of a President, 1875-1881, Covering the Disputed Election, The End of Reconstruction, and the Beginning of Civil Service (New York: D. McKay Company, 1964), pp. 164-66, accessed January 14, 2019, MRD-S 24549, Montpelier Research Database. Hayes then used his few moments on the Montpelier portico to connect Madison’s legacy to a hopeful vision for post-Civil War America:

“In view of this beautiful scene, the magnificent range of the Blue Ridge, this verdant lawn and hospitable mansion, here at the home of Madison. we may surely say that if the advice and patriotic purposes of this great man had been observed, we should have been saved from civic strife, and, as in the past, so in the future, there are no troubles that can arise in the administrative affairs of our country that cannot be settled by recurrence to the principles of Madison, which inculcate the submission of all sections, States, communities, and citizens to the Constitution and laws of the land. The bottom and foundation principles on which Madison built will always afford us means of adjusting all our difficulties. … let us all hope that, with a model Constitution to guide us, the worst that can ever befall us is over.” Madison’s Memory; President Hayes and Part of His Cabinet Visit the Estate of Ex-President James Madison, Inter Ocean (Chicago, IL), October 10, 1878, 4, accessed January 15, 2019, MRD-S 253, Montpelier Research Database.

 

Theodore Roosevelt

By contrast, Montpelier’s next Presidential visitor traveled here not as a public speaker, but simply as a cultural tourist. Theodore Roosevelt had previously visited Washington’s Mount Vernon, Jefferson’s Monticello, and Jackson’s Hermitage. At Madison Home: Roosevelt to go to Montpelier Where the Fourth President Spent His Early Days, November 23, [1907], box Printed Material: Clippings, Pamphlets, folder Newsclippings, Dolley Madison Collection, MS 47, Greensboro Historical Museum, Greensboro, North Carolina, accessed January 15, 2019, MRD-S 32388, Montpelier Research Database. On November 28, 1907, Roosevelt added another Presidential home to his lifetime list with a Thanksgiving Day visit to Montpelier.

President Roosevelt traveled by train from Washington on Thanksgiving morning, along with First Lady Edith Kermit Carow Roosevelt and two of their children: 10-year-old Quentin and 16-year-old Ethel. (Other Roosevelt sons were away at school.) Unlike Hayes, who arrived at the train station in Orange, Roosevelt had the convenience of arriving at Montpelier Station, on the outskirts of the Montpelier property. President’s Thanksgiving. Has Two Turkeys, One Wild, and a ‘Possum on the Dinner Table., The Sun (New York NY), November 29, 1907, accessed January 23, 2019, MRD-S 48162, Montpelier Research Database. (William duPont would later have a depot built there in 1910).

Hosted by William duPont and family, the Roosevelts “were escorted through all parts of the mansion, and listened to many stories concerning the historic spot. The President was particularly interested in visiting the tomb of President Madison and remained near it some time.”

Roosevelts Visit Madison Homestead: See the Tomb of a President in Virginia, New York Times (New York), November 29, 1907, 9, accessed January 18, 2019, MRD-S 41437, Montpelier Research Database.

Luncheon was served on the Roosevelts’ private train car on the return trip. They arrived back at the White House in the late afternoon, in plenty of time for their evening dinner of turkey (domesticated and wild) and possum. Joining the family for dinner were the Roosevelts’ daughter and son-in-law, Alice and Nicholas Longworth, who had opted out of the trip to Montpelier. The press, eager to report on the activities of the President’s high-spirited daughter, noted that “in the afternoon hours, the Princess Alice was seen steering her own automobile along the capital’s thoroughfares.” Thanksgiving at the White House, Town and Country Life (December 7, 1907), accessed January 18, 2019, MRD-S 24535, Montpelier Research Database.

 

George H. W. Bush

George H. W. Bush is welcomed by Montpelier’s president Christopher Scott during his 1991 visit.Montpelier’s most recent Presidential visitor was an invited guest for the bicentennial of the ratification of the Bill of Rights. George H. W. Bush was the featured speaker for the event held on December 16, 1991. Army musicians in Revolutionary War uniform performed at the ceremony, at which President Bush signed a proclamation entitled “Year of Thanksgiving for the Blessings of Liberty.” Frank J. Murray, Bush pledges money for Madison mansion, The Washington Times (Washington DC), December 17, 1991, accessed January 18, 2019, MRD-S 42010, Montpelier Research Database.

Like Rutherford B. Hayes, Bush drew lessons from James Madison’s life to apply to the current moment, remarking: “The framers of our Constitution confronted problems not unlike those that the Central and Eastern European constitution writers face today. The framers had to grapple with ethnic and religious differences, regional interests, issues of where power should lie and of how to contain conflict.” Bush also urged Americans “to focus on our Madisonian legacies in need of renewal,” referring to limited government, protection of property rights, equal application of the laws, and protection against factions in the form of special interest groups. George Bush, Public Papers of the Presidents of the United States, July 1 to December 31, 1991, p. 1615, accessed January 18, 2019.

George H. W. Bush was known for sending thank-you notes, even for a gift as modest as a T-shirt. This note is preserved in the Montpelier archives.

Not Only Presidents

Although there have been no Presidential visits since 1991, Montpelier has hosted one First Lady and two Second Couples in later years.

First Lady Hillary Rodham Clinton visited Montpelier on July 10, 1998, for the opening of the Discovering Madison exhibition. Clinton served as the Honorary Chair of the “Save America’s Treasures” program, which had just been established by the White House Millennium Council and the National Trust for Historic Preservation. This public-private partnership provides matching funds to preserve nationally significant properties and collections. Clinton’s visit to Montpelier was the kick-off to her “Save America’s Treasures” tour of historic sites in the Northeast.

White House Millennium Council, “Save America’s Treasures Tour” with First Lady Hillary Rodham Clinton, accessed January 31, 2019.

Explaining the need for preserving American history, Clinton quoted Madison: “The origin and outset of the American Republic contain lessons of which posterity ought not to be deprived.” James Madison to William Eustis, July 6, 1819, James Madison Papers, Library of Congress, Washington, DC, accessed January 31, 2019, MRD-S 16620, Montpelier Research Database. Flanking her in front of Montpelier’s rear portico are the president of the National Trust for Historic Preservation, Richard Moe (left) and the chairman of the Montpelier Property Council, Glen Moreno. The entire ceremony was recorded by C-SPAN and may be viewed here.

Former Second Lady Lynne Cheney came to Montpelier on April 2, 2014, accompanied by her husband, former Vice President Dick Cheney. Dr. Lynne Cheney, a Madison biographer, presented a talk based on her recently-published book James Madison: A Life Reconsidered. The Cheneys enjoyed a private tour of Montpelier afterward.

More recently, former Second Couple Mike and Karen Pence made an impromptu visit to Montpelier on September 11, 2022. The Pences were on a tight schedule and had intended only to walk the grounds, but the Visitor Center staff made sure that they received a whirlwind tour of the house as well. Following the tour, Montpelier Foundation Chairman James French greeted the Pences at the Madison Cemetery. Mike Pence shared that he came to Montpelier because James Madison had been inspirational to him, in supporting the peaceful transition of power.

A Crossroads of Presidential History

Montpelier has an undeniable claim to Presidential history. For James Madison, it was home. For Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe, it was a place to enjoy the company of their friend. Even after Madison’s death, Montpelier has continued to attract Presidents. When Rutherford B. Hayes called for post-Civil War unity here, when George H. W. Bush spoke to the post-Cold War reality, or when Theodore Roosevelt simply lingered at the Madison gravesite, each President acknowledged Montpelier’s symbolic importance – and added a new layer to its Presidential history.

This post was updated on January 16, 2023, with information about the visit of former Second Couple Mike and Karen Pence.

Why did James Madison have a temple in his front yard? He didn’t come here to pray– it wasn’t that kind of temple. Maybe it reminded him of the ancient Roman temple where the “flame of Liberty” was kept burning. But what does “liberty” mean? Does it mean that you can do anything you want? Whenever you want? Of course not! Can you imagine a whole country of people doing whatever they want? Imagine how quickly things would get out of control!

Things were getting out of control after the colonies broke away from the King of England during the American Revolution. The new states didn’t have a good system to govern themselves. They needed a rulebook. They needed a constitution.

Enter James Madison. He read lots of books right here at Montpelier that gave him ideas about the rules that other countries played by, if they didn’t have a king. Madison went to Philadelphia and worked with people from many different states to write a Constitution. His ideas were so helpful that now he is known as the “Father of the Constitution.”

What does the Constitution say about who makes the rules? Instead of a king, it’s “We The People.” The Constitution gives citizens the FREEDOM to govern themselves, to choose their own leaders, and to make their own laws and rules. The Constitution also protects the people’s rights like freedom of speech, freedom of religion, and freedom of the press.

At first the Constitution didn’t allow everyone to participate in government, but over the past 240 years, Americans have made changes — things called Amendments– that let more people have rights, and vote, and run for office. Now “We the People” means just about “All the People!”

The United States Constitution is the modern world’s longest lasting Constitution, and many countries have used it as a model when they wrote their own Constitutions . And just think: it all began right here, on this plantation, Montpelier. That’s how Montpelier made its mark on the world!

Madison was the 4th President, but can you guess six other Presidents who came to Montpelier?

Madison’s best friends were Presidents 3 and 5. Maybe you’ll visit their homes, Monticello and Highland. Who were they? … Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe!

President Number 7 visited Montpelier in 1832. Someone in your family might have his picture right now – he’s on the $20 bill. Who was he? … Andrew Jackson!

Three other Presidents visited Montpelier after Madison’s lifetime. They might be harder to guess, but let’s give it a try.

President Number 19 came in 1878, and gave a speech in praise of Madison and the Constitution. In fact, his last name rhymes with “praise.” Any guesses?… Rutherford B. Hayes!

President Number 26 came to Montpelier on Thanksgiving Day 1907, when the duPonts lived here. A toy bear is named for him. Who was he? … Teddy Roosevelt!

And finally, President Number 41 came here in 1991 for the 200th anniversary of the Bill of Rights. His son was a President too. Can you guess? … George H. W. Bush!

That’s a lot of Presidents who made their mark on Montpelier. And today you’re here! Now you’re part of Montpelier’s story too.

Sometimes the people who lived at Montpelier chose to make their mark, but other times they were forced to make their mark. From the time President Madison’s grandparents came to Montpelier, it was a plantation––a huge farm–where enslaved people of African descent grew crops like tobacco, wheat, and corn and did many other jobs to make money for the Madison family. People who were enslaved had many skills and worked hard, but they didn’t get the benefit.

It was not only enslaved adults that labored for the Madisons, but enslaved children were also forced to do a lot of different tasks such as gathering firewood, helping in the kitchens, hauling water, cleaning stables, and… making bricks. Look at this huge house in front of you— each and every one of these bricks was made one at a time, by hand. On plantations, brick-making was often a task given to enslaved children. They pressed wet clay into rectangular-shaped molds. Then the bricks were left in the sun to “bake,” and once enough bricks were made they “fired” them to harden them. Have you ever pressed your fingers into wet clay? What happens when you do that? Your fingerprints make a mark. That’s exactly what happened here when enslaved people were making bricks to build this house. As you walk around the house, see if you can find any fingerprints in the bricks. These fingerprints remind us that nearly 300 enslaved people, of all ages, made their mark on Montpelier.

Since enslaved adults and children did most of the work at Montpelier, they didn’t have a lot of time for fun. What did they do when they did have a little time to themselves? Archaeologists found artifacts – marbles, doll parts, and toy wagon wheels – that tell us that enslaved children sometimes played with toys. Other artifacts, like musical instruments called jaw harps, tell us that enslaved people made music. Many of the activities that enslaved people probably enjoyed, like storytelling or dancing, didn’t leave artifacts in the ground.

The Madisons had much more time to themselves. Written records describe one of their favorite ways to have fun: parties.

Dolley Madison wrote about a barbecue picnic that she and James hosted on the 4th of July 1816. Ninety guests sat at tables set up on the lawn by enslaved people. Enslaved waiters served them roasted meats and punch, and most likely, fresh vegetables from the garden.

We don’t have a written account of what enslaved people had to do to get ready for that party, but historians found one written account that gives us a clue. In 1824, the famous General Lafayette visited Montpelier. A young enslaved maid named Ailsey Payne was there. Years later, she gave a newspaper reporter her eyewitness account. She saw so many horse drawn carriages she could hardly count them. Young enslaved men rode and led the horses. Enslaved people stored all kinds of food and meat in the icehouse. Ailsey Payne helped clean every inch of the House and shined all of the glass, silver, and china.

Ailsey Payne left her mark on Montpelier by telling her story! Will you tell someone about your visit?

Have you ever been asked to “sweep the floor?” Maybe it’s your chore to sweep up the crumbs that fall to the floor after dinner (if you don’t have a dog to do it for you). But have you ever been asked to “sweep the yard?” Archaeologists at Montpelier believe that enslaved people who lived here did just that! They used brooms to sweep away all of the grass and weeds. The ground would have been like a smooth, hard, clay floor.

Sweeping the yard cut down pests and unwanted creatures like ticks, mice, and snakes. It was a natural way of getting rid of pests that ruined food or caused disease.

The building in front of you was once a kitchen. Enslaved cooks labored here from long before sunup to long after sundown to prepare meals for the Madison family and their guests. They could build their hot cooking fires outside in the swept yard so that the work was more tolerable.

Except for the two smokehouses, the buildings here were homes for enslaved families who mostly worked inside the Madisons’ House. Their homes could be crowded, dark, and unbearably hot in summer. Having a smooth, swept yard allowed them to move many of their indoor activities outdoors. Imagine how busy this place would have been!

The ancestors of enslaved people at Montpelier had also swept their yards in Africa.They passed their wisdom along to their descendants. This is just one example of how enslaved people and their ancestors left their mark on Montpelier.

Do you have pets?

The Madisons had a pet parrot named Polly, but most of the animals at Montpelier weren’t pets – they were working animals. Horses pulled plows that made the ground ready for planting wheat or corn. Horses also pulled wagons, loaded with barrels of Montpelier tobaccos or wheat flour, to market in Fredericksburg and Richmond, and brought supplies back. Aleck was an enslaved wagoner who drove and cared for the horses. On one trip to Fredericksburg, Aleck had to borrow 50 cents to go to the blacksmith for new horseshoes so the horses could make the trip back.

Besides horses, there were cows and sheep and pigs at Montpelier. Some animals were raised for food. Sheep were also raised for their woolly coats. Enslaved women spun the wool into yarn or thread, and weavers like Reuben, Amy, and Harriet wove it into cloth.

James Madison wanted to improve the American breeds of cows and sheep. He bought some Merino sheep, because their wool was so good. A friend gave him some Devon calves as a gift, because they were a better breed of cows.

Animals made their mark at Montpelier – and so did the people who worked with them and took care of them!

How do we know what we know about the past? We can’t ask the people who used to live here— they’re long gone. We have to piece together clues from “primary sources”— letters, journals, diaries, paintings, and newspapers. History is kind of like a giant jigsaw puzzle— as we put the pieces together, a picture of the past emerges!

The very first people to live at Montpelier were Native Americans, or Indigenous people. They didn’t leave written records behind, but they did leave artifacts– objects that were made or shaped or used with their own hands. People who study artifacts are called archaeologists. Montpelier’s archaeologists have discovered artifacts that are about 2000 years old. That tells us that Indigenous people were here, thousands of years before the Madisons, or enslaved people, ever set foot on this land.

The Manahoac tribe were the native people living on this land just before the Madisons arrived here. Artifacts show us that the Manahoac made their mark by making their homes here for periods of time. The artifacts found near President Madison’s house, and near his grandparent’s house at Mount Pleasant–objects such as ceramics, stone tools, and projectile points— show us that the Manahoac thought these were good places to live too.

Did you know that there are descendants of Manahoac people living and making their mark in Virginia today? They are now part of the Monocan tribe, one of the 7 Federally recognized tribes in Virginia.

Some of the people that left their mark on Montpelier are buried here in the Madison family Cemetery. Can you guess which of these gravestones marks the final resting place of James Madison? It’s the tallest monument, and it’s called an obelisk. Today it’s easy to spot Madison’s grave, but if you visited Montpelier in the first 20 years after his death, you wouldn’t know where he was buried unless you were a member of his family. James Madison passed away on June 28, 1836, and two days later, he was buried here, in an unmarked grave.

Why would a president of the United States be buried in an unmarked grave? Today we usually place a marker at the head of a grave, but in the 1700s and 1800s people didn’t always do that, especially in a family cemetery where everyone knew where their family members were buried. If you count the gravestones you’ll find that there are about 30, but we know there are about 100 Madison family members buried here.

It wasn’t until 20 years later that people, outside of the Madison family, decided to place the large gravestone to honor the “Father of the Constitution.” Now, ready for a creepy story? Before placing the gravestone, a deep foundation had to be dug to a depth below James Madison’s coffin. “The boards placed above the coffin had decayed…and the coffin lid was slightly out of place…” so the men digging the foundation opened the coffin lid and “looked in upon the remains…” of James Madison!

Some people made their mark at Montpelier by leaving it.

Anthony was just 17 years old when he decided to make his escape from Montpelier. He had been enslaved here all his life, working in the Madisons’ house, and he was ready to take a big risk for freedom. James Madison’s father placed an ad in the newspaper to say that Anthony had escaped. The ad said that Anthony had light hair and gray eyes, and it described his coats, pants, striped overalls, hat, and buckled shoes. The ad offered a reward for capturing Anthony.

Anthony didn’t want to be caught, so he told people his name was Robert Jones. But one year after he escaped, Anthony was found, about 70 miles from Montpelier. He told the men who captured him that he had traveled to port cities in Virginia, to Philadelphia, and even the West Indies.

But the very next day, Anthony escaped again. He managed to get papers that said he was a free man named Billy Willis. There was a rumor that he was heading to Philadelphia. The Madisons never heard from him again. What happened next is a mystery. But Anthony left his mark by taking a big risk for freedom.

The duPont Family bought Montpelier in 1901 and made many changes to the House and the property. Did you see the racetrack on your way in today? You might even have seen some horses!

Marion duPont Scott loved horses and horse racing. She helped make Montpelier one of the most important horse training centers in America. When three of her favorite horses passed away, she had them buried here and put up these markers to remember them.

Perhaps her favorite horse was Battleship. He was so small that people called him the “American Pony,” but Marion DuPont Scott knew that he had big talent. She sent him across the ocean to race in the British “Grand National,” an important steeplechase race that is still run today. The race is over 4 miles long, and the horses have to jump 30 fences! Many people thought that a small horse like Battleship couldn’t possibly win, but in 1938 he surprised them all! To this day, he is still the smallest horse ever to win the British Grand National. You might say that Battleship left his hoofprints on the history of horse racing!

Marion duPont Scott left another mark on Montpelier. She wanted to share Montpelier and its story with everyone. Thanks to her, you can visit Montpelier today!

Lots of people made their mark on Montpelier. But there are two people you might already know: James and Dolley Madison!

How did James Madison make his mark? He was a Virginia lawmaker, a US Congressman, the Secretary of State, and our 4th President! (Not all at the same time.)

But most importantly, Madison was “Father of the Constitution” and “Architect of the Bill of Rights.” He didn’t write those documents all by himself, but he shared lots of good ideas that still help us govern our country. Madison got his ideas from reading books right here at Montpelier, and he made notes to take to the Constitutional Convention.

Madison could spend so much time in public service because his family had money from owning this plantation. The Madisons enslaved people who grew crops and tended animals. The enslaved people didn’t have much choice about being here, but their hard work made Madison’s career possible. The enslaved people made their mark as the “invisible Founders” of our country.

Dolley Madison made her mark too. James was shy and quiet, but Dolley liked to bring people together for dinners and parties, especially in Washington, DC. That made it easier for James to connect with other people in government.

As you explore Montpelier, see what else you’ll find out about people making their mark!

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